minolta 35mm

What I Learned Photographing #13: Minolta CLE + Rokkor-M 40mm f/2, Rokkor-M 28mm f/2.8, and Rokkor-M 90mm f/4

What I Learned Photographing #13: Minolta CLE + Rokkor-M 40mm f/2, Rokkor-M 28mm f/2.8, and Rokkor-M 90mm f/4

For the gear fiends (or anyone unlucky enough to be pulled here via SEO) - here’s the actual wrap up of the Minolta CLE and lenses, so that you can read it and leave, and not suffer all the philosophizing:

The .58x rangefinder base length is really nice and makes shooting with a rangefinder manageable with glasses (NB: I mean manageable, not really enjoyable - for me), the 40mm is one of the best looking lenses I’ve owned. The 90mm was neat to use, but also kinda whatever. It was neat to use a 28mm and be able to see the whole frame, but also nothing super notable either - like it’s cool but also whatever.

I pretty much exclusively shot the camera in aperture priority or program or whatever it is. It worked out fine, pretty much every time. The meter is good, and provided your cable doesn’t give you issues, using off camera flash is easy and the auto metering is fine there too. Pretty sure I went over all that in the “hey look, I photographed some weebs - the results are alright, I guess.” article, but thought it’d be worth running back here.

Honestly it’s one of those things where, “everything’s fine, there aren’t a ton of problems” is about the best thing you can say about a camera - you know nothing strange will happen, the thing just kinda does it’s job, you don’t have to worry. The small size is low-key enough that you can sneak around doing street photography without worrying much, if that’s your thing. It makes it easy to carry, or pocket, if need be. Personally, I find the handle annoying and useless - don’t pay the extra money for it, also it stops you from using a tripod, so you have to unscrew the handle, then attach your tripod, then try and keep track of a small plastic thing (always a recipe for disaster) - granted if you’re using a tripod, you’re probably not using this camera, but it’s an annoyance.

There’s  not a good direct substitute for it, give or take the even more maligned Leica/Minolta CL, short of ponying up a kidney and getting a Leica MP/M7 with the .58x baselength rangefinder, - but even then, neither of those cameras has the 40mm framelines. Compared to a Leica I don’t really notice much of a difference in “feel” as far as the mechanics go. I guess the plastic on the CLE is “cheap” but it feels fine to me, but I’m a profligate. I got my Minolta CLE in the Collector’s edition briefcase, with all three lenses, and bonus items. It’s pretty neat, and honestly having a purpose specific case, that holds everything neatly makes storage much much more convenient. 

The Minolta CLE w/ 40mm Rokkor-M F/2 was my grail camera/setup for a long time. I used it, it’s a great setup for the most part, but: if you have glasses, are a left eyed shooter, work mostly in landscape photography, and you’re an SLR dork - or are any or all of those things - like me, even the Minolta CLE won’t elevate your images, or make you faster, or help you at all. I do really wish I could get the 40mm in some kind of SLR compatible package. After all that I ultimately found that I just don’t care that much about it either. At this point, I’ve kinda given up buying new cameras, and check in as ambivalent at best on most equipment.

 A camera’s a camera, stick with stuff you don’t second guess, the limit is you. Go figure.

If you want something more affirming, or helpful, or poetic go visit any of these reviews - they’re probably a much better guide:  

https://casualphotophile.com/2016/05/23/why-i-choose-the-minolta-cle-over-any-leica-m/

https://www.35mmc.com/08/02/2019/minolta-cle-review/

https://www.kenrockwell.com/leica/cle.htm

https://www.macfilos.com/2021/04/12/forgotten-innovation-minolta-cle-with-40-2-28-2-8-and-the-21mm-wide-angles/

Anyway, here’s the musings and notes or, like, what I learned on a more theoretical level:

I guess this isn’t a long review - more or less a page? I covered a lot when I did a writeup on shooting an anime convention. I think that honestly does a solid enough job of like “this is the camera on an actual shoot weekend.” I will include a bunch of landscape pictures here, just to give examples. I don’t really have much to say about working in landscape photography though — I’ll get to why.

Rangefinders are neat, they definitely give you a certain “feel” while working, I’d wager to say that’s like 75% in your head to be sure. Then again, most art is “in your head” isn’t it? Rangefinders do a reasonable job of getting you out of your head, because they’re one step abstracted by default (what the Viewfinder sees is not exactly the same as the lens, and then you compose around the framelines rather than the bounced image) - but combined with learning to see more broadly, and understanding that even through an SLR viewfinder, the image you think you’re capturing is about half the final product, you can kinda use whatever camera suits your purpose best. 

Other quick notes I don’t think I got around to during my Anime Convention writeup: working quick on rangefinder is easier when you’re doing candid stuff, but squaring up for a direct portrait is not great, especially if you have to look for the stupid little rangefinder patch, while holding a flash, and moving the lens tab. I generally find the instant feedback from the slr is more manageable squared up with someone in front of me.

Rangefinders generally use slow lenses with fairly limited apertures (yeah, sure the noctiluxes/summiluxes are things, but realistically, who even owns or shoots with those?). This shouldn’t really be a surprise to anyone who likes cameras, or y’know is looking for a review of a secret handshake camera. I didn’t realize how much I liked being able to go to 1.4 for a thin/dreamy or abstracted look, until I was stuck at f/2 on a moderately wide lens or f/4 on a mild telephoto. Add on to that, most RF lenses also seem to have pretty miserable close focus distances too. I know Mark Steinmetz does god tier street portraits (if you really wanna limit them to being just that) with a gw690, which is both slow and has a crappy close focus distance.

On the whole, I’ve come to the conclusion you can essentially use any camera for landscape photography. It truly doesn’t matter. Make your frame, square up, Shoot. Are you composing with lines that forecast what you’re seeing, or a viewfinder with somewhat limited coverage? Either way, doesn’t really matter. SLR or Rangefinder. For the most part, nothing in your frame is going much of anywhere any time fast. Theoretically Rangefinders are lighter, but honestly, unless you’re a mountaineer, or a long distance hiker, up to medium format - the difference in weight is negligible. That said, I seem to excel in toting heavy items long distances,  massive grain of salt right there.

The idea of the image or like the skeleton of the image based on your idea seems to be the most critical factor - what you do or make with it along the way, and what the scene and every subsequent step tells you - or what you learn from it seems to be the best determining factor for the final photo and what that final photo is used in. Not to to get too woo-woo, but honestly, I’ve come to really believe in “trust the process” - not like put blind faith in mindless repetition or serving the goal or just proceeding forward, but like actively taking part in the imagemaking process and really mining into all the insights you find along the way - that’s where the money or at the very least, the interesting images, seem to be at.

I’m wholly willing to admit at this point, I’m just not cool enough to be a rangefinder person. That being said, I’m kinda over *cool* photographers. I’m generally pretty bored sick of the edgelord mentality that plagues a lot of street photographers (and I suppose photographers at large?). You can make really sharp, out there, hardcore content without being an edgelord, or at least making that your whole public persona or internet persona. We get it, you’re cool, you’re hip, you’re in the street.

Left eye dominance, then glasses, is just kind of a mess. The viewfinder’s nice. One thing that’s big in street photography shooting that I’m lucky enough to have learned early on and made use of over time is keeping both eyes open when looking through the viewfinder - it lets you see/compose/be aware beyond the given frame, and makes squaring up a lot easier. Kinda lets you cheat the rangefinder effect of seeing “around” the frame via the framelines.

Swapping to my non dominant eye was really good for breaking up my usual shooting patterns. I can’t keep both eyes open when I use my off eye,  because it’s not over trained. Eventually I could keep both eyes open but my right eye doesn’t want to fully focus like my left eye does, when both are open but one’s using a viewfinder. It does beg the question to me, how long does it take to build up that strength - assuming it’s an optical/muscular issue.

The Rokkor-M 28mm F/2.8 is a 28mm. The big viewfinder makes it easy to use. I dunno, it’s fine? I don’t really know what to tell you - it’s a lens angle/focal length for me - I’m generally a 24mm guy if I shoot a true wide these days. The Rokkor-M 28mm works fine - even with the known schneideritis issue. I have no real complaints, it’s just not my thing. 

The  Rokkor-M 90mm F/4 is less goofy to use than you’d think through the giant .58x rangefinder.  I can wrap my brain around Saul Leiter’s process now. I don’t think I could replicate it or perform in his style, but I think I can kinda see inside his head on this one, if you’ll bear with me - by using ultra tight super tiny boxes in a or normal finder, it lets you make the strongest simplest composition, because you couldn’t possibly work out the textures - because of that you get really tight, really sharp shape and line based compositions that usually work out well because the large compositional elements of the photograph are strong, because you’re essentially limiting yourself to only being able to guess at the fine detail - it goes back to that idea of the “idea” of the image, and an element of chance.

Calibration is obnoxious, as is repair. Had to send my camera into two different techs. Avoid Dave of Dave’s Camera Repair in Michigan at all costs (I’m definitely not alone in this - it’s well documented on the net) he might steal your gear or it’ll get stuck in limbo - I had to spend the better part of a month chasing him down. Can’t say I much cared for the other tech either - I got much the same treatment, as Dave did to me - he (apparently) had some health issues, and we’re at least loosely in the same social circle, so I’ll avoid naming him here. Generally I have good luck with camera techs, so it’s good to know or be aware of. I’ve definitely taken having a reliable camera tech for granted. Anyway, just be careful looking for a tech. Most of the camera *should* be easily repairable/adjustable, the one twist is of course the electronics, but that’s a known risk.

Weird side takeaway - even if the rf calibration is fine, I did find out real fast that not all epson v600’s are created equal (I mean, consensus is they kinda suck, but still) - my old one that I had in LA was actually really reliable, and the focus was set correctly. The last one I had here in maine was rough. Add another reason onto the pile of why I hate the V600.

I feel pretty confident returning to my XD11 for my daily shooter/carryalong - it’s great. It’s still (relatively) cheap if I need to replace it. I get along with it. But all that being said, I spend most of my serious work time on my Pentax 6x7, and having a good chunk of cash sunk into a package that I just don’t use or don’t use optimally seems like a waste. I dunno.


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What I learned Shooting #010: Neopan Professional 400 Review and/or Minolta MD-W Rokkor X 35mm 1.8 Review

What I learned Shooting #010: Neopan Professional 400 and/or Minolta MD-W Rokkor X 35mm 1.8

I managed to nab a few of bricks of Neopan at my favorite camera store/hoard house in Maine -- I sold a few to an acquaintance (hopefully I can get him to contribute a review/or some input down the line about the Neopan), but kept about twenty five rolls for myself -- accidentally destroyed one roll, and gave one away  -- which is a bit on the short end for what I usually test, or at least test and then give a writeup to. On that same trip/visit, I was also offered a Minolta MD-W Rokkor X 35mm 1.8 at a price I couldn’t refuse.

The background: Neopan Professional 400 is (was) a black and white 400 speed film made by Fujifilm. Neopan Professional 400 (or Presto in Japan) was Fuji’s answer to Ilford HP5+ or Kodak Tri-x 400. It’s a fairly neutral, balanced tonal scale balanced film with tons of flex-room. It’s got nice sharp grain, and it’s tonality is a little more on the contrasty side, closer to Tri-X than HP5+ at box speed. I’ve tried scouring the net for data on the film, but there’s not much to be found, if any. There’s a few forum threads, but mostly, it’s as if the film never existed, which is a bit of a shock, as I think it was only discontinued 3-4 years ago. Owing to the fact that photomarket is basically a hoard-house I’m about 90% sure that this batch of film is the same one that I was shooting in high-school, with an expry of 2011 — though I find that black and white film doesn’t really go bad at the same speed as color film does, nor does it go off in nearly as grotesque or terrible ways.

The Rokkor 35mm 1.8 was from the second gen of MD lenses from Minolta specifically designed for the XD series (which you can read more about here) so pretty much perfect for me, because that’s basically the only 35mm camera I shoot. I’ve actually never really shot a 35mm before, or at least not extensively so it was a learning experience.

So what did I learn about Neopan 400 and the Rokkor-W MD-X 35mm 1.8:

Neopan 400 is or was an undeniably great film. It may actually be my favorite 400 speed film that I’ve ever shot, I know I’ve slowly been doing the rounds of extensively testing 400 iso emulsions to work with for my BnW work. This detour might’ve been ultimately the biggest disappointment to date, not because the look is disappointing, but the odds of finding the film again, in a large enough capacity are slim, and I can’t shoot it. It’s a super flexible film, and can actually, truly be shot and developed from 200-3200, at least in Kodak XTOL 1:1. The johnny patience method does work for it, but it doesn’t seem to really need a whole lot of overcompensating to get a decently contrasty performance, at box speed.  I’ve broken down a gallery below of the film in Xtol with different iso ratings (all shot on the Minolta XD-11, with the MD-x Rokkor-W 35mm 1.8). I really like the film at base, and at 1600/3200. 800 seems like a bit of an odd trade off, and you might as well reach for 1600 for the extra contrast and grit at that point. Also of note is that the Minolta XD-11 kind of craps out in terms of metering ability right around 3200 at night — and while I’m sure anyone would recommend a handheld meter, if you’re only using a it as a rough guide, you might be better off just shooting at 1600 with it then overdeveloping extra or just knowing if you go one stop under whatever the thing reads

Fuji Neopan 400 Professional shot at box in Xtol 1:1, developed to 20% over the listed development time for 400.

Fuji Neopan 400 Professional shot at 400 and/or 800 in Xtol 1:1, developed to 20% over the listed development time for 800.

Fuji Neopan 400 Professional shot at 1600 in Xtol 1:1, developed to 20% over the listed development time for 1600.

Neopan 400 shot at 1600/3200 and developed to 3200 plus 20% for safety.

The next major finding I had was unrelated to the film -- it was about Xtol. Xtol, despite being the newest commercially available developer from Kodak, still has a fairly old/outdated data sheet - despite it being “updated” in 2018. Most film manufacturers don’t recommend that you develop anything in temperatures over 75ºF or 24º C, but anyway, the Kodak module for Xtol (available from Kodak here) gives development times with temperatures going up to 80ºF. The module also has times for now extinct films like Neopan 400, and Plus-X Pan. I do a lot of push processing, exclusively in Xtol, so knowing that I can use it up while warm, up to at least 80º is a pretty big win, because it helps cut down some pretty steep developing times with HP5+ and Bergger Pancro (rated at 1600-3200) hitting between 30 minutes to an hour in Xtol 1:1, even up at 75º. 

Please find below a set of photos shot at 1600ish, and then pushed to 3200 in Xtol @ 80º -- I did shoot these on the Minoltina AL-s -- which doesn’t have a working meter. This is also a loose representation of how flexible Neopan 400 is, and how much you can over/underexpose it. The grain is pretty big/chunky here, but all in, it’s still okay in my book.

Neopan 400 shot at 1600ish developed to 1600ish, In Xtol 1:1 at 80º F for 11 minutes

Likewise my next finding is common knowledge to basically anyone who does a lot of development, but it bears repeating here: Rodinal is just god awful on everything 400 speed and above. I know Bergger Pancro 400 looks good in rodinal but that’s an extreme rarity. It’s particularly awful for Neopan Professional 400. Normally I’m not the guy who notices or particularly cares about grain, but like, shit’s rough and kinda gross. Almost as bad as Kentmere/Harman AGFA APX 400 in Xtol. I know rodinal is pretty finicky, and gets worse at higher temperatures, and with more agitation, but I actually went out of my way to use 68º water, and give the film maybe one or two turns at most every minute, along with only agitating the film for a 30 second period for the first minute, rather than the standard full minute you need with Xtol, or any mainstream developer (I know or have read on unblinking eye that Pyrocat and variants are a lot touchier than Rodinal). The tones are really good, but once you get bigger than say a standard social media post/sized print it’s a little rough on grain.

Fuji Neopan 400 in Rodinal 1:50

Also of note, This was my first extended period shooting a 35mm focal length. I’ve shot some 40mm on the minoltina AL-s but not enough to really dig into it as a daily shooter. Its a good little camera, but it’s not nearly as sturdy or stable as the XD-11. At any rate, 35mm is something I’ve largely avoided, it never seemed like a good fit for me, and I’d gotten really comfortable shooting and composing for a 50mm or a normal -- and on paper a 35mm lens never really seemed “right” or like it would be a good fit for me. That said, when I was able to buy a really nice 35mm (the minolta rokkor -- Minolta MD-W Rokkor X 35mm 1.8 -- at the right price -- about ⅓ the standard market value) I jumped at it, and thought if it didn’t work out I could easily flip the lens for a profit, and it’d be a no harm no foul transaction.

Compared to the 50mm, a 35mm feels a bit like drunk driving --  It’s got buffer everywhere and it just feels out of control, or like I’m spinning out everywhere. After a while, resetting my eyes, it began to feel more natural, and in a lot of cases a really great fit for shooting in an urban environment -- i’ve come to prefer it to shooting a 50mm for a lot of uses -- it’s expansive enough that I don’t have to doublethink or think too much about framing, or moving myself to get the shot I want. That said, I’d still trade some headroom for a little more compression, and like the look of a 40mm a bit more than 35mm, but it’s a minor nitpick. Theoretically 35mm is a wide lens, but in most cases after getting used to it it just feels like a normal with reach — though sometimes the distortion does creep in or get to you. That said, if you like wides, and you like Minolta lenses, especially Minolta Wide Lenses — I’m sure it’d be a great every day shooter for you too.

My only real complaint about the Minolta MD-W Rokkor X 35mm 1.8 is that, as much as you’d think 1.4 wouldn’t be that much different or, like It wouldn’t play out super differently, but starting at 1.8 and then having to jump to 2.8 is not my favorite. I like that on the MC PG-x Rokkor 50mm 1.4 it’s 1.4 then 2, and 2 has a significant jump in depth of field/sharpness. The gripe is fairly small once you factor in the increased DOF by being a wider lens, and the fact that at least the MD-W 35mm is actually really sharp even at 1.8, as you can see in the lowlight/push tests, but still it bugs me a little.

In other weird sidenotes, because this is more a blog than a formal test -- because let’s be honest formal tests are boring, and if you really needed dry facts you’d probably head to APUG or one of the other cranky old man forums to read over data fast, I’ve actually never bothered to use Kodak HC-110. A lot of the reason is that I’ve basically found that Xtol and Rodinal work for me, and do the jobs I need them to do well -- Pushing and clean medium speed film for Xtol and Contrasty, sharp grain development. Everything I’ve ever heard and seen from HC-110 is that it’s good for pushing and it typically makes nice but chunky grain -- but hey, I was clearly wrong about what I’d think about 35mm, so I might be wrong about HC-110. It might actually be up my alley.

The only other musing worth sharing that I can think of is that, after testing it the illford wash process actually works pretty well. A couple of my rolls had really dark bases, and I quickly realized that I wasn’t adequately washing the film by letting a slow stream of water run through the tank. However the ilford wash, 5 inversions of clean water, dump, then 10 with a new set of water, then 20 with another fill, actually did the trick fairly well. Also, my fixer went bad faster than I’m used to -- or I ran more film through it than I typically do, Either way, I’ll probably keep better track next year.

As of right now I have half a roll of Neopan 400 professional left in my camera. It’ll be a disappointment when I can’t shoot it anymore.

Anyway, thanks for reading! If you’ve read any article on here this year, mine or otherwise, I really do appreciate your continued readership and support.